Made-to-measure handrails for stairs and balustrades

The best material depends on whether handrail will be used indoors or outdoors, how much maintenance you’re willing to put into it, and what kind of feel you want in your hand. Wood provides a warm, natural grip, while stainless steel and aluminium are low-maintenance and have a more minimalist feel.

Oak and ash are best suited for indoor use, and jatoba is a hard wood for those who want wood even in more exposed locations. Stainless steel handrails is available in AISI 304 for indoor use and AISI 316 for outdoor use. Powder-coated aluminium can be matched to the railing. Wood requires maintenance as needed to preserve its surface, while metal primarily needs to be cleaned.

The height of a handrail depends on local building requirements and the staircase or ramp. It should be positioned where your hand naturally seeks support, be easy to grip and provide support throughout its length. Check the requirements that apply where the handrail will be installed.

The handrail should follow the slope of the stairs at a consistent height and normally run without interruption. Measure the height vertically from the front edge of each step to maintain a consistent position along the staircase. In areas used by children or older people, an additional lower handrail may make the stairs easier to use. Follow the installation instructions for your chosen system.

We recommend leaving about 50 mm of clear space between the wall and the handrail. This gives your fingers room to grip the handrail and move along it without hitting the wall or bracket fixings. The clearance helps make the handrail comfortable to use along its full length.

What matters is the clear distance between the outside of the handrail and the wall, not how far the bracket projects. A thicker handrail may therefore need a bracket with greater projection to provide the same grip clearance. Mouldings, panelling and other protruding features can reduce the available space, so check the entire length before choosing a bracket.

A wall-mounted handrail is secured using brackets fixed to a sound part of the wall. The appropriate fixings depend on the wall material and its construction. Once installed, the handrail should be firmly secured and should not move when a load is applied. Choosing the correct fixings is essential.

For timber-framed or plasterboard walls, it is generally best to secure the brackets to studs or suitable reinforcement behind the surface. For concrete walls, use fixings designed for concrete. Mark the handrail position, align the brackets and check that the handrail follows the staircase before tightening the fixings. Longer handrails may require additional brackets to provide adequate support.

A handrail should begin early enough for you to grip it before taking the first step and continue until you can stand securely on level ground. This provides support through the transition between the stairs and the floor, where balance can be lost. Where space allows, extending the handrail beyond the top and bottom of the stairs can help.

Finish the handrail with a rounded end or return it towards the wall to avoid a protruding end, and keep the handrail continuous where possible. In confined spaces, doors and walkways may limit its length. Check the building requirements that apply locally.

The right stair balustrade depends on whether the staircase is indoors or outdoors, how much light and openness you want to retain, and the style of your home. Common materials include glass, aluminium, stainless steel, timber and wire, sometimes combined. Each creates a different look.

Glass allows light through and creates an open feel. Aluminium is relatively easy to maintain indoors and outdoors, while stainless steel provides a metallic finish that pairs well with glass and timber. Timber is often chosen for handrails because it feels warm to the touch. Wire can create an open appearance, but horizontal wires may be easy for children to climb. Weather resistance and maintenance are especially important outdoors; light, space and style often take priority indoors.

When measuring for a stair balustrade, you need the staircase length, vertical rise and width, as well as the intended start and end points of the balustrade. Ideally, measure the completed staircase and record the dimensions on a simple sketch to help plan post positions and changes in direction. Measure the length from the nosing of the bottom step to the nosing of the top step.

Place a straight batten along the nosings of the steps and measure its length and the vertical rise to determine the slope. Mark landings, turns and connections to balustrades on other levels, and check that the stair stringer can support the posts. Check each measurement twice before ordering.

A stair balustrade provides fall protection where there is a risk of falling from the stairs or landing. Its height and design should suit the staircase’s use and the potential fall height, and it should be fixed to a suitable load-bearing part of the structure. Applicable requirements depend on local building regulations. The balustrade also needs to withstand the relevant loads and follow the slope of the stairs.

Where young children may be present, the design should discourage climbing and avoid openings that could pose a risk, including alongside the steps. Glass and vertical bars are common indoors, while grade 316 stainless steel and powder-coated aluminium can be suitable outdoors. A wall-mounted handrail often provides additional support.